Letter to Mom & Dad - 1/11/06

I'm getting caught up on my letter writing after my two weeks of traveling, so I hope to catch everyone up in due course. I already told about my holidays, but today was a Muslim holiday call Tabaski. It was also my first night of dancing in village. Overall, a pretty good day.

Starting out, due to the holiday, no women came for vaccinations so I had my morning free and I decided to got for a good long walk in the bush to stretch my legs and to work off some of the weight I gained over the holiday. The day, as clear as ever, stayed pleasant with a steady breeze. The walk/hike was pleasant and I meandered around the northern area above To, making my way back using the compass you gave me. The region is quite dry, but still has plenty of bushy trees that aid giving shade during the long promenade. I made it back in time for a free lunch offered by one of my neighbors on my way home. After eating a plate of rice with a couple of chunks of meat, I made it home for a strong power nap. (Naps are now a requirement for my midday break.) Woken by a friend to remind me to come visit later, I got up and prepared to make the social rounds to wish everyone a "Wend na kond naverre" or Happy Tabaski! This holiday everyone kills and eats a lamb, which is great for me 'cause I get to eat meat whenever I visit someone.

I visited a teacher friend and we talked Burkina politics as I ate a kidney and drank tea. I then visited another just to chat. I finally got to chat with my counterpart as we drank zoom-koom (milky-water with sugar). I then finished some letter as I waited to go dancing with one of my local friends and his family. I don't usually go 'cause a single woman dancing at a bar is a big no-no for "proper" people of the village. But, today is a holiday and I'm allowed.

Now, imagine this, going to a bar where everyone is staring at you because you're the only white person there. Then try to dance in front of about 400 people, half of which have stopped to stare at you, alone. Men aren't allowed to dance or touch women as they dance. So often men dance with men and women dance with women. I was dancing with the kids, or the kids are the only ones that would dance with me. (?) Who knows. Anyway, try to relax in this environment and get your groove on. I had to breath a few time, and I really had a good time.

These folks really, truly love to dance. All ages, and they don't care, unless you're white, how anyone else dances. They all got their own beat and it was beautiful to watch their joy and literal freedom of expression. I got a huge kick watching mothers grooving with baby's strapped to their back still, like they weren't even there. The kids were still asleep through the movements, shaking and music. Amazing.

After about an hour, I was tired of being so intensely watched and followed by little boys that I decided to head home. The dancing didn't tire me out, but the stress of the scrutiny did. Anyhoo, it was still a good day. Gotta go and get ready for tomorrow.

Miss you & love you!
Always, Laura